Weaving Basics: Looms, Process, and Fabric Care
I work on two looms—a 36” 4-harness Leclerc Artisat floor loom and a 60” 16-harness AVL production loom. I typically weave cotton in overshot on my Leclerc loom at home, and wool on my AVL loom at my studio.
Woven cloth is made by interlacing yarns on a loom so they cross each other, usually at a ninety-degree angle. There are several steps involved in making cloth on a loom.
My process when working on my Leclerc loom looks something like this:
Planning: I start by deciding how wide and long the cloth will be. Using historic weaving drafts and patterns, I sketch the design on graph paper, turning my idea into a plan.
Winding the warp: For a typical overshot piece that is 20 inches wide and 6 yards long at 30 threads per inch, I measure out 600 threads of equal length using a warping board. That means more than two miles of yarn pass through my hands to create the warp (the vertical threads).
Dressing the loom: Each of those 600 threads is threaded by hand, one at a time through a heddle on one of four shafts according to the draft, then through a reed on the beater to keep the spacing even.
Preparing bobbins: I wind bobbins with yarn for the weft (the horizontal threads).
Weaving: A bobbin goes into the shuttle, which carries the weft back and forth. As I press the treadles (foot pedals), they raise different sets of warp threads to form the pattern.
Finishing: Once the cloth is cut from the loom, it’s washed, dried, and pressed to even out the weave and improve the hand (feel) of the fabric. Finally, I cut and hand-sew each piece.
Some weaving terminology is defined beautifully here.
Caring for Handwoven Fabric
Everything I create is made to be used and loved. I only work with natural fibers such as cotton, linen, and wool. Caring for handwoven fabric depends on the fiber, but some general practices work for most pieces.
Washing (cotton and linen):
For bandanas and garments - handwash or wash on delicate in cool water with a gentle detergent. If handwashing, rinse well and gently squeeze out excess water (don’t wring or twist). Lay flat, hang to dry, or dry on low. Tumble drying can soften some fabrics, but it can also cause shrinkage or distortion. Use a warm iron to press out wrinkles and reshape.
For bags – spot clean small stains or spills by dampening a soft cloth or sponge with cool water and a drop of mild soap. Gently blot the area—avoid scrubbing, which can push the stain deeper into the fibers. Rinse by blotting with a clean, damp cloth, then let the bag air dry completely.
Washing (wool):
Hand wash in a tub with cold or lukewarm water and a mild, wool-safe detergent, avoiding agitation and heat. Submerge the piece and gently press it to work the detergent through the fibers, then rinse with cool water. Press out excess water without wringing, then roll the blanket in a towel. Finally, lay it flat or drape gently on a drying to air dry.
Snags Happen: Handwoven fabric has a more open structure than manufactured textiles, so an occasional snag is normal. If you find one, don’t cut it. Instead, use a blunt needle or crochet hook to gently pull the loop back into place. Then smooth the surrounding threads with your fingers to even out the tension. For severe pulls or broken threads, you can weave in a repair thread using a needle, matching the original path of the yarn.
General Care: Avoid rough surfaces and sharp objects that can catch threads. Over time, your fabric may soften and develop a unique character—that’s part of what makes handwoven cloth special.